The barrel is also taller on the later one since the front barrel is housed inside a cover. Another good thing about that is you could now use circular polarizers and not worry about its rotating front. Ergonomically, the newer lens is superior. Handling is excellent despite being heavy.
You can switch between manual or autofocus with a switch near its throat. The focus-limiter ring is situated at the neck which is where your supporting hand will be positioned. This is a nice backup solution.
The front barrel moves in-and-out as you focus, this is kind of annoying and it makes it fragile. The minimal electronic parts it has also ensures that there are lesser things that could go wrong with it. Okay, I digress. If it had the Ai -coupling claws like in all-manual Nikkors it would have been possible to meter using it on older Nikons. You could add them yourself, just drill and tap the holes to attach the claws.
Knowing how a lens performs is important, you will know its strengths and weaknesses. This knowledge will help you determine which lens to bring on an assignment. The photos were shot with my Nikon D3. It is quite good in comparison even to some modern lenses. The character of the bokeh is quite pleasant in most cases but there will be a few instances where it will exhibit mediocre-looking results.
Some of the photos here were tightly-cropped to about 2. Chromatic aberration can be observed wide-open.
The corners look nice, much better than I expected. Contrast and saturation is rather good throughout the whole aperture range. Check the last set and observe it for yourself. This is a wonderful lens despite the lack of VR. You could maintain a faster shutter-speed with a modern digital camera so that will help a lot.
This was how we were able to shoot events some 10 years ago with what we had. Shooting together with people who had all the new and fancy lenses made me feel a bit awkward since I was the only person shooting with an obsolete setup, it did turn some heads since people were looking at me and thought what was I thinking bringing a year-old setup in Here are some photos that I shot with film.
The Nikon F6 was able to track adequately with it despite it having a slower autofocus performance compared to modern lenses. It is able to capture sharp, wonderful photos. I am impressed by how it was able to resolve the details beautifully despite the film being cheap. It makes fabulous-looking people even more fabulous! Tracking energetic subjects will be challenging for this lens but it was able to do it marginally. Lion-dancing is difficult to cover since the movements are quite erratic.
You should first lock-on to your subject and let the camera do its job. It was a cloudy day so it was difficult to maintain a high shutter-speed at all times. Here are more photos that I got from this roll. This is going to be limited in low-light scenarios such as shooting in a club. It will be mandatory to use a flash unless the stage is bright.
Using a flash will be helpful but that is usually a no-no in events. Just remember this and you should be able to enjoy this, photographers back then went through similar situations and overcame it with skill and that should still be true today.
Why choose this over the 2 newer ones? The answer is simple, the 2 newer versions have a tendency to back-focus when shooting at their long-end at distances below 10m on modern Nikons. This one does not do it and it focuses perfectly at closer distances.
Having mentioned the above, I highly recommend this to anyone needing a professional zoom so long as autofocus-speed is not a concern.
It lacks VR, a crucial technology these days for lenses of this class but it is something that we can live without since there are many workarounds for it. We never had it before but we managed to take great photos with our prehistoric zooms. When purchasing one, turn everything and make sure everything operates smoothly. Check the glass and iris, they should be clean. The iris should be snappy when actuated and they should move evenly. Check the focus, be sure that it autofocuses fine.
Just get one of these, it may be the best investment you have made for your hobby or career. Reading these primers should lessen the chance of ruining your lens if you are a novice. Before opening up any lens, always look for other people who have done so in Youtube or the internet. Information is scarce, vague and scattered that is why I started this but you can still find some information if you search carefully. I highly recommend that you read my working with helicoids post because this is very important and getting it wrong can ruin your day.
If I can force you to read this, I would. It is that important! For more advanced topics, you can read my fungus removal post as a start. This post has a lot of useful information and it will be beneficial for you to read this. Servicing this is frustrating since most of its external screws were sealed. It takes more time to soften the seals than actually working on it. Do not rush, you will need plenty of time just to prep. You will also need specialized tools to open some of the parts here, too.
I was expecting to do a near-complete dismantling of this lens but mine was not as dirty as I initially thought and all I had to do was to clean the front. Locate and carefully extract this. Apply alcohol to the nameplate to dissolve the adhesive.
Extracting the screws from the front part of the barrel will allow you to get the front assembly off. It can be difficult to pull-out because it may be glued at the factory. Note that there are 2 guides at the rear of the assembly, those should fit into their respective slots at the opposing side within the main barrel. Note how these align when you collapse the helicoids, you should be able to reproduce this.
Many people forget to do this so they get stuck figuring out how these should mate. Remove the distance scale and the brass ring. The groove should link to a screw on the opposing side of the main assembly. Carefully unscrew the retainer to extract the front group.
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