Jasco floor patch level

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It is mandatory to procure user consent prior to running these cookies on your website. Skip to content. Product Categories. One other note - many of the pros here are at a trade show in Chicago this week. Please be patient if the advice doesn't come as quick as it usually does. Now that you've started this tread, keep all your questions here so that the pros have a history of your project.

It helps them to serve you better. Good luck! Porcelin is ceramic, just made with a specific type of clay and fired hotter so it is typically harder. Because it is so dense, some blades won't cut it well. You won't know until you try yours. Because of the density, most manufacturers recommend a modified thinset - they are stickier and grab onto the dense, smooth porcelain better. Not to say that a standard thinse won't work.

On the larger tiles, it is often also recommended to skim coat or backbutter them to embed the thinset into the pores and maybe grid patter well then set on the combed out thinset on the floor. If any of the cracks are not at the same level - then you might want to think twice about tiling. There are crack isolation membranes you can put down on the floor to protect the tile from receiving the crack as well.

If you are going to use Ditra, you want to put it on top of the heating mats after you've embedded them in either thinset or self-leveling concrete. Depending on how out of whack the floor is, the slc can help, and embeds the mats quickly and quite well. It does add a lot to the costs, but makes setting the tile so much easier. Well, I'm still searching the forums and taking notes it's hard to sort through everything though because of the differing circumstances.

This may sound stupid but if we have heat throughout heat pump the house and basement, is below freezing a problem? The cracks are very thin and smooth horizontally as far as I can remember. Cost is an issue, trying to keep those down.

This question may be silly too but even after I read some about Ditra, when it is a requirement? The heating mats are just to take the chill of the floor, and only in 3 select areas.

Crack isolation is always a good thing. Determining if it is required is harder. A good thinset the more modified, the more flexible can help. Tile doesn't really care about level, but it likes flat. Trying to get a flat floor with only select areas covered with heat mats can be done, but is harder. If you aren't careful, you'll end up with those three areas as raised sections, showing the area with the mats.

That's where the slc would make things eaiser - you'd end up with a totally flat AND level floor. That can be a lot of material costs, though. Now see, I thought with the mats, that you just build up your thin-set a bit more, to even it out.

The manufacturer's instructions on the 'Sun-Touch Planner' indicate that the mat is always installed on TOP of the sub-floor. The mat is a thin mesh with wiring woven through it. I did notice the previous owners left behind a small tub of self-leveling something or other, in that bathroom where the crack is. They were planning vinyl tiles. So the question I have now is how thick is too thick?

OF these two which do you prefer and why? Has anyone used the Metallic stuff? I wouldn't want it to be straightup glitter but a touch might be nice?

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